Pet Handling Through Understanding Pack Mentality

A Groomer's Tip To Effective Pet Handling Through Understanding Pack Mentality

NATURAL INSTINCTS

A dog's natural instinct plays a vital role in pet handling. It is often difficult to differentiate between instinct and intelligence. Instinct is an urge from within. Instinct makes a dog act in certain ways and has no connection with intelligence.

A common misperception is that the expectations we have for dogs are far above their ability. Some people believe dogs understand complex thought patterns and are able to comprehend our moral and ethical codes. They assume a dog's level of understanding is the same as our own. There is a scientific name for this, Anthropomorphism. Anthropomorphism means: “to assign emotion or thought patterns to animals or objects, which are incapable of achieving such dimensions.”

This is not the case. Dogs work on drive levels and instinct. It is important while handling a dog to keep in mind that they do not have the capacity to comprehend the complex thought processes that bring us to understand human emotions, language and behavior.

Most instincts provide pleasure to the dog, and because it associates the action with pleasure, learning to use the natural instinct for handling purposes will produce a positive result.

The first is an instinct that is reinforced when the dog is a puppy. Female dogs carry their young by gently picking them up by the back of the neck. The puppy instinctually stops playing and/or wiggling when it is in this position. Using this knowledge and simulating the same pressure that a mother exerts in controlling her puppies will assist in handling the dog. It is important to remember this fact; the natural response of a mother or leader dog is to release the restraint or grasp as soon as the dog submits. Therefore, restrain when needed.

The second instinct is how a subordinate dog will be ‘muzzled' by another dog. This puts that dog into a submissive state. You can illicit that same state by simulating the same behavior on that dog.

Employing these tactics will not only produce the desired response, but will also be consistent with the natural canine communication. Learn about the Leading Behavior Modification Equipement at Groomers Helper®.

PACK MENTALITY

To understand a dog's behavior, you must first understand that a dog is a pack animal. This Pack Mentality means that in a dog's mind you are either a leader or a follower – depending on your actions. In a dog's world, this is the natural order of life – each dog has his place in the pack.

Pack Mentality focuses on behaving as the leader commands. Dogs (Canis lupus familiaris) are wolves (Canis lupus) of many colors, shapes, and sizes. Wolves live by a very strict code of behavior, which is based on pack hierarchy. The Leader in any dog or wolf pack is considered the Alpha. The Alpha protects the pack, shelters the pack, feeds the pack, and determines how the pack reacts and behaves.

Dominance, Submission, and Aggression

The goal is to have the dog see you, the groomer, as the Alpha, which will allow you to use that authority to guide the dog – even though you cannot communicate with him on his own level. Therefore, understanding dominance, submission, aggression, and the dog's affinity for group living are important to effective safe pet handling

Dominance, submission, and aggression are complex behaviors between dogs. When you add in the human factor these complex behaviors are compounded. Dogs behave differently with humans than they do with other dogs. This is an important fact that must be considered every time a dog is brought into your grooming shop or van.

A dominant dog has an air of superiority, a way of demanding attention and challenging control. Dominance by itself is not aggression, but it can become aggression if the dog is given too much leeway to pursue his own agenda. In the grooming shop the groomer has to be dominant, not aggressive.

The Many Sides Of Dog Behavior

Understand this – a dog's behavior is never 100 % predictable.

A dog can be submissive to people and also be dominant to other dogs.

A dog can be submissive to adults and be dominant to children.

A dog in the middle may quarrel with other dogs (or not) and vacillate between tough guy and wimp in relationships with people.

A dog may behave in a dominant fashion on one day and be submissive the next.

A dog will willingly obey one groomer and completely ignore another groomer.

Bottom Line: A dog that is allowed to dominate humans can become a menace to groomers. Learn about the Leading Behavior Modification Equipement at Groomers Helper®.

Groomers Taking Control – Understanding Pack Mentality and Using it

When a dog arrives at a grooming shop its natural instinct is to immediately establish his place in the pack. Some dogs assume an automatic submissive role and will automatically act like a subordinate. Others will be more aggressive, and exhibit pushy behavior, attempting to climb the social ladder as high as you will allow them to.

At this point it is important to remember that you must become the Alpha, and establish a dominant role is your grooming shop. This does not mean you need to treat the dog aggressively. Being leader of the pack has nothing to do with harsh punishment. It has everything to do with consistency and setting limits. This means you simply need to establish and maintain your authority. Properly restraining a dog while grooming will let them know that you are the Alpha and you are in charge.

Authority and Confidence

Authority is established through being firm, but fair. A dog that growls, shows his teeth or nips at lower pack members loses respect from the other pack members. Alpha dogs that display aggression are often challenged, as they are considered a threat to other pack members. Being aggressive does not earn respect.

Confidence is at the top of the list. Observing body language is pertinent to surviving in a pack. A dominant dog is confident, stands tall, ears forward, and maintains eye contact. Dogs are known for their intuition, and this is derived from a pack instinct. The dog will watch you for eye contact and confidence, and this is important in maintaining an Alpha position in the grooming shop. Remember a dog's behavior is based on natural instincts derived from the Pack Mentality.

A lower ranked dog will not challenge a higher rank for food, or act aggressively towards a dog that is higher in the social structure of the pack. If a dog growls when you go to pick him up or put a leash on him, he is exhibiting a sign that he does not feel you have a higher ranking in the pack. An Alpha male will not accept commands from lower ranking dogs.

Dogs are a little like children in one respect, they're looking for someone else to be the leader. They want rules and regulations because that makes their role in the pack more clear-cut and easy to understand. It's scary being the leader. If you're not up to it, the dog may assume the role because someone has to be in charge! You need to set the rules and apply them from the first moment you meet the dog.

Learn about the Leading Behavior Modification Equipement at Groomers Helper®

Indoor Cats CAN Play Outdoors

Indoor Cats CAN Go Outdoors To Play

Does your cat spend it's day on the back of the sofa or the arm of a chair looking out the window watching the world go by?

You want to let her out to play in the grass and to run with the other creatures but the fear is she wont get back safely or the traffic is to heavy. Maybe the fear is that without claws she can't defend herself or skamper up a tree out of harms way. What ever the reason, you can now let the outside experiences be part of your cats life.

From the simplest Fully Enclosed Mesh Funhouse that provides a generous 72”x34”x28” of play yard on up to a fully enclosed complex of tunnels, swings, shelters and lookout towers - your cat can now enjoy the outside safely and without constant supervision.

The Feline Funhouse®

Wild Whiskers offers the most portable, lightweight, affordable outdoor cat / pet enclosures available.

The patented Outdoor Feline Funhouse® is perfect for traveling with small pets. This portable one-piece mesh enclosure protectively surrounds your pet from all sides while allowing them to safely enjoy the outdoors.

a "breath of fresh air" for indoor cats and other small pets!™

This is a comfortable outdoor or indoor cat enclosure in which your indoor feline or other small pet may enjoy fresh air and sunshine. This portable containment system can be placed on your deck or lawn. It is also great for camping and RVing with pets!

The patented Funhouse® includes stakes and weight bags for extra stability. It is a roomy (72”x39”x27”), one-piece enclosed unit that sets up instantly with NO ASSEMBLY REQUIRED, then folds quickly and easily to store flat in its own zippered carrying bag.

Additionally, the Feline Funhouse may be used indoors to separate animals, keep pets confined when you are knitting or doing other tasks with which they might want to “interfere”, or to keep an ill / recovering animal temporarily contained and quiet.

Breeders also find the Outdoor Funhouse useful for containing new litters of kittens and for use in hotel rooms while traveling to shows.

The Funhouse® is extremely durable, lightweight, portable and easy to store. Two heavy-duty zippered doors provide easy in and out access. Weather resistant nylon netting allows the free flow of air and provides pet owner and pets with ease of visibility. The patented cat enclosure is even tough enough to stand up to claws! Your feline or other small pet will thank you for making enjoying the outdoors with you so much easier!

Included 22" diameter Storage bag.

The patented Funhouse® includes stakes and weight bags for extra stability. It is a roomy (72”x34”x28”), one-piece enclosed unit that sets up instantly then folds quickly and easily to store flat in its own zippered carrying bag.

What is meant by "Kittywalk® Systems"?

The Systems in Kittywalk© Systems refers to the inter-connectivity of the different outdoor pet components. They can go together in a variety of different configurations giving you and your indoor pets a wide variety of options to enjoy the great outdoors.

Kittywalk® is made of sturdy industrial strength fishnet, weaved to a steel hoop shaped wicket that easily stakes firmly into the ground.

Outdoor pet enclosure stakes quickly and easily into your lawn and allows your cat to relax in the fresh air, watch the birds, exercise and enjoy the sunshine without the risks of escape or injury.

THESE PRODUCTS ARE NOT TOYS AND SHOULD NOT BE USED BY INFANTS OR CHILDREN, FOR DOMESTIC CATS & DOGS ONLY. KITTYWALK® SYSTEMS PRODUCTS ARE NOT FOR PETS THAT CHEW.

Crate Training Made Simple

Crate Training

If you like nothing better than coming home from a hard day's work and finding that your dog decided to "go" on the couch or use your favorite slippers as a new chew toy, then crate training isn't for you.

But, if you're like most people, using a crate to properly train your dog will be time well spent.

Crate training takes some time and effort, but it is a proven way to help train dogs who act inappropriately without knowing any better.

If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules—like what he can and can't chew on and where he can and can't eliminate.

Selecting a Crate

Crates may be plastic (often called "flight kennels") or collapsible, metal pens. But, more and more, pet owners want to get away from the ugly and use crates that complement their home's decor.

Decor crates come in different sizes from 24" deep to 45" deep. They available in a variety of wood stains or in light or dark rhino wicker / rattan and can be purchased at most specialty pet supply stores. Most decor crates also are ideal for use as an end table, bed side table or plant stand - it does not have to be hidden anymore. For more information just click on one of the pictures above.

Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other.

The Crate Training Process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: the crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to the Crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate, and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten him.

To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay; don't force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals in the Crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If, instead, your dog remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.

Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it's imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.

Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog to the Crate for Longer Time Periods

After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let him out of the crate.

Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4, Part A: Crating Your Dog When Left Alone

After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You'll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.

Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.

Step 4, Part B: Crating Your Dog at Night

	Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.
	Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Potential Problems

	Too Much Time In The Crate. A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to meet his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.
	Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.

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Summertime is fun for the family. The pool is open or the boat is in the water - but what about the pets?

Summertime is fun for the family. The pool is open or the boat is in the water - but what about the pets?

Each year, in the U.S. alone, over 50,000 family pets drowned needlessly in swimming pools and walled lakes, along with countless millions of other animals.

Skamper-Ramp is a simple, inexpensive solution to prevent these deaths. Whether it’s a frog, squirrel or a pet, you will have no more morning surprises with Skamper-Ramp on duty. It is the animal rescue device that will help protect pets and wild animals from accidental drowning whether or not you are in the area.

If you have flotation vests or safety turtle alarms or any of several other safety products at your pool, Skamper-Ramp is a natural partner to own.

The life saving Skamper-Ramp is the only water rescue device on the market that protects animals from drowning—even if no one is home!! The large Skamper-Ramp when used with boats and docks will help them actually get out of the water without the aid of their owner, not just keep them afloat.

This simple white, corrugated, recyclable, polypropylene plastic ramp attaches to the side of the pool, walled pond/lake, most docks, and even many boats.

The science is that ALL living beings - domestic or wild; bugs, animals or humans; whether they are colorblind or not - see 550nm wavelength, which is the color white. As long as the Skamper-Ramp is installed so that a few inches of the "nose" (curved) end are under water and the ramp breaks the surface, the animal will see it, day or night, and they will safely “skamper” out on the ramp.